Yesterday I went to go for a little surf. I didn't know how big the waves were, and when I got to Blacks, I saw that they were pretty big. There was a time when I would have charged out all excited, but now I went out a little nervous. I made it out fine, and felt ready, but when one of those large canyon sets came, and I was in the spot, I looked down the face of the wave, and pulled back. I can still see the whole wave - its burned into my memory - and I wish so bad I didn't pull back. If I had made the drop, it would have been my ride of the year, for sure. All I know is that now, that image in my mind is a reminder that I chickened out. (Even now, I am pretty sure I would have gotten worked - really hard, but I still wish I went) I eventually caught some waves, but the majority of the time, I was chasing after my board after my leash came undone, getting caught inside, scrambling over more huge canyon sets, and eventually undoing my leash and ditching my board when the biggest wave of the day broke right in front of me. I went home humbled. But, when I got home I finished this painting. Something about seeing this image makes me feel better. It tells me that there will be other waves, and maybe I'll ride some of them. This one is so beautiful I can't stop looking at it.
Watercolor 12 x 16"